Using a flux brush, apply a small amount of flux to each joint and "tack solder". Tack soldering is applying a small amount of solder to each joint so that your pieces are held in one place.

Next, apply a light, even coating of flux to all seams. Too much flux will spatter and create small pits or bubbles in your solder seam. Too little flux will leave irregular solder seams and uncovered foil.

Basic soldering techniques: Heat iron to a temperature that melts the solder you are using to a liquid state (approximately 700 degrees). Remember to periodically wipe your iron tip on a water-wet sponge. Grasp your iron the same way you would hold a knife; fingers curled around one side of the handle, thumb on the other. The tip of the iron should face so that the wide flat sides face side to side and the thin sides face up and down. Hold the solder comfortably in the other hand with approximately 6" uncoiled.

If you are holding the iron in your right hand, it will be easiest to work right to left. If you are holding the iron in your left hand, work left to right.

Begin soldering approximately 1/4" from the edge of your piece. Here is where a small amount of coordination is required. Feed the solder against the flat side of the tip and lightly touch the iron to the copper foil seam. You should hear a little sizzle and see the solder puddle under the iron tip. Move the iron slowly and smoothly across your copper foil seam at the same time you feed the solder against the tip.

Watch your solder seam. If it's flat, slow down and use more solder. If it's pouring onto your stained glass, speed up. Good soldering takes patience and practice - most people need to complete a few projects to get the hang of it. If you are planning to use a U-channel came to edge your piece, leave abut 1/4" of your copper foil seam free from solder at the edge of your panel. If you are simply tinning your edges, complete the seams all the way to the edge.

If you are unhappy with the way your solder seam looks, don't keep going over it. Move on and come back to it later. Too much heat in one place can cause your stained glass to break. (Not to mention getting you frustrated!) Remember, you can always re-flux and go back over these seams once they have cooled.

After you have completed one side of your piece, carefully turn it over. Generally, you will hold your piece on the edges near the center. Turning your piece over from the top can sometimes cause your piece to bend in the center.

2. U-channel came: There are many types of U-channel came available. The most popular types are copper, zinc, and lead. Lead is most commonly used on small round or irregular pieces. For Large round or irregular pieces, you would need to use zinc and a came bender, since lead is not strong enough.   Copper and zinc are most commonly used on squares and rectangles. Zinc is used with black patinated and silver seams. Copper came is used with copper or bronze patinated seams.

The first step is to make sure any seam leading to the edge of your panel is flat at least 1/4" to the edge. To edge, simply use a fine toothed hobby saw and mitre box and cut a small amount (about 1") to use for measuring. If you don't have a hobby saw you can use a dremel tool with the cutoff wheel attachment (wear safety glasses).  Lay your stained glass piece on a flat surface in the direction you would like it to hang. Slide the U-channel over the right edge. If it is too snug, use the curved end of your fid and open up the came. Slide the small piece of came used for measuring onto the top right corner of your piece. Move the came on the right side up until the two cames meet together at the top. Carefully remove the measuring came and slide it onto the bottom right corner. Use a felt tip marker to mark on the side came where the two cames meet at the bottom. Remove the side came and cut the came at your mark. Remember to allow for the width of the saw blade. Slide came back on the right side of your panel and check the fit. Repeat procedure with left side.

To fit the top piece, remove the right side came and slide the came to be cut onto the top edge. It should fit flush to the inside of the side came. The open ends of the came should be to the top and bottom of the side cames. Slide the came onto the upper right side until it meets the top came. Mark the came to the inside edge of the measuring came. Cut the came and replace on the top. Slide right side came back on and check fit. Repeat procedure for the bottom piece.

Solder rings into the top of the side pieces of came. Fill holes in the U-channel with solder by dabbing small amounts at a time. Work quickly - this is tricky.